Installing a Drip Irrigation System

Posted by admin on Aug 16th, 2009 in Home | 0 comments

If you’re looking for ways to keep your garden watered without wasting too much time and money, you’ve probably gone through a lot of options in your mind. Maybe you’ve considered a sprinkler, a hose, or a good old-fashioned watering can. All of these methods might be convenient, but most of the time you will end up wasting water on plants that don’t need any more. If you live in a drought stricken area like I do, you know that every bit of water counts. I ended up getting a drip irrigation system. I haven’t regretted this decision at all.

When you install a drip irrigation system, you can choose one of two varieties: above ground and below ground. The above ground version drips small amounts of water continuously onto the ground, and allows it to soak in. It is all regulated from a pressure controller, which ensures that the water just comes out at a drip instead of a spray or a stream. These pressure regulators are very inexpensive. The whoe drip system can be set up with a pressure regulator and a garden hose with holes poked in it (although it is ideal for you to get a pipe designed for this type of use, I’ve found that the hose method works acceptably).

The underground system is a bit more of a pain to install and maintain. But if you’re really into the aesthetic aspect of your garden and don’t want any visible watering system, then you might consider it worth it. It’s essentially the same as the above ground version, only a small trench is dug for the hose or pipe prior to any planting. This allows the water
direct access to the roots for the most watering efficiency. Plus, you can impress your neighbors by having a beautiful garden without ever going outside to water it! They’ll be baffled.

To choose between the two systems, you need to take several things into account. Do you have the same plant layout year round? If it is always changing, you probably won’t want to bury your hose. It can be a pain to dig it up and re-align it with all your new plants every year or so. Even if your plant layout never changes, you need to consider how much you really mind seeing a hose in your garden. If it really bothers you to the extent that you’re willing to work for a few hours to get rid of it, then by all means bury it. But otherwise I would suggest staying above ground if for nothing else than the convenience of repairing and rearranging.

One of the main advantages of the drip irrigation system is its efficiency. Instead of spraying large amounts of water willy-nilly like a hose does, it makes the most of your precious water by putting it exactly where it is needed. It can also provide your garden with constant watering, instead of just having to go thirsty whenever you’re not around to water it.

So if you’re looking for an easy, cheap, convenient, and efficient alternative watering method, you should go out to the gardening store today and purchase the necessary items to install a drip irrigation system. I think you’ll be surprised at  how much easier it is to maintain a garden after you have it.

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Picking a Healthy Plant

Posted by admin on Aug 10th, 2009 in Gardening | 1 comment

When it comes to getting started with your garden, you have two choices; planting seeds, or buying entire plants. Both have their own benefits. If you plant seeds and care for them every day, you will find it is a much more rewarding experience when you have a full, healthy plant. However, this method is a lot more risky. I can’t tell you how many seeds I’ve planted and never seen any trace of whatsoever.

If you choose to buy the plant from a nursery and install it in your garden, it reduces a lot of the work involved in making it healthy. However, I have found in the past that many incompetent nursery workers will absolutely ruin the future of the plant by putting certain chemicals or fertilizers in. I have adapted to this incompetence by learning to choose the healthiest plant of the bunch. Here I will discuss some of the techniques I use in my screening process for plants.

It may sound superficial, but the one thing you need to check for on your prospective plants is how nice they look. As far as plants go, you can truly judge a book by its cover. If a plant has been treated healthily and has no diseases or pests, you can almost always tell by how nice it looks. If a plant has grown up in improper soil, or has harmful bugs living in it, you can tell from the holey leaves and wilted stems.

If you’re browsing the nursery shelves looking for your dream plant, you want to exclude anything that currently has flowers. Plants are less traumatized by the transplant if they do not currently have any flowers. It’s best to find ones that just consist of buds. However if all you have to choose from are flowering plants, then you should do the unthinkable and sever all of them. It will be worth it for the future health of the plant. I’ve found that transplanting a plant while it is blooming results in having a dead plant ninety percent of the time.

Always check the roots before you plop down the money to purchase the plant. Of course if the roots are in absolutely terrible condition you will be able to tell by looking at the rest of the plant. But if the roots are just slightly out of shape, then you probably won’t be able to tell just by looking at it. Inspect the roots very closely for any signs of brownness, rottenness, or softness. The roots should always be a firm, perfectly well formed infrastructure that holds all the soil together. One can easily tell if the roots are before or past their prime, depending on the root to soil ratio. If there are a ridiculous amount of roots with little soil, or a bunch of soil with few roots, you should not buy that plant.

If you find any abnormalities with the plant, whether it be the shape of the roots or any irregular features with the leaves, you should ask the nursery employees. While usually these things can be the sign of an unhealthy plant, occasionally there will be a logical explanation for it. Always give the nursery a chance before writing them off as horrendous. After all, they are (usually) professionals who have been dealing with plants for years.

So if you decide to take the easy route and get a plant from a nursery, you just have to remember that the health of the plants has been left up to someone you don’t know. Usually they do a good job, but you should always check for yourself. Also take every precaution you can to avoid transplant shock in the plant (when it has trouble adjusting to its new location, and therefore has health problems in the future). Usually the process goes smoothly, but you can never be too sure.

7 Tips For Buying An Outdoor Fireplace

Posted by admin on Aug 7th, 2009 in Home | 0 comments

Before buying an outdoor fireplace, there are several factors to take into account. Always remember that the safety of your family and property is the most important consideration.

1. Size matters

When comparing fireplaces, look at the size of the fire area before the height. If the firebox is small, wood buying and cutting is more difficult.

Requesting for specially cut wood from your supplier increases your cost.

Try to find a large firebox, don’t bother with the tall and thin fireplace. A small firebowl will cost more down the road. You don’t need a large fire just because you have a large fireplace, just use less wood to have a smaller fire.

A good fireplace burns more cleanly and more efficiently than a firepit design having no smoke stack. The fireplace draws air into the fire and blows out the neck for an efficient burn. Firepit designs tend to smoke and smolder much more than a traditional fireplace design because of poor airflow.

2. Proper maintenance

Fireplaces made in the more commercial copper, clay or sheet steel don’t have the longevity or safety of aluminum or cast iron. Sheet metal fireplaces are available at a bargain cost. They’re pretty much a disposable type of fireplace. Once metal sheet fireplaces start to rust, they have already outlived their usefulness. Check the gauge or thickness of the metal. A metal too thin might melt.

Some cast iron fireplaces have sheet metal necks. If that’s the case, check if the manufacturer has replacement parts available and cost. Frequent replacement for the neck is not what you want.

Cast iron must be maintained to prevent rust. It is a little difficult to maintain. But a well maintained cast iron fireplace will last you a long time. Also, consider the placement of your cast iron fireplace.

The cast iron fireplace tends to stain the surface it stands on.

An occasional paint job with a high temperature paint will slow down rusting. The cast iron is heavy and can stand a lot of abuse.

Copper looks great initially but after a couple of uses it tends to be green and rusty. Several companies put holes in the bottom of the firepits to drain ash and water out during rain. Firepits without holes will be filled with water when it rains.

Cast Aluminum is one of the best buys. It is easy to maintain and a long lifespan. An aluminum fireplace does not warp and only has a slightly lower melting temperature than cast iron. Cast aluminum does not rust. It is also considerably lighter than cast iron making it easier to move around.

3. Weigh it

When comparing fireplaces, check the weight. Most fireplaces are produced by weight, so they are bought by weight. Be sure that you’re comparing the same material, copper to copper or cast iron to cast iron.

4. Aluminum feature

Cast aluminum is by far a better choice for a novice outdoor enthusiast. The fireplace is easier to maintain and can be easily moved around. It may be brought to a home by the lake or stored during winter along Northern areas. Store it to prevent damage or possible theft.

5. Clay fireplace

The most disturbing problem with a clay fireplace is that it can fall apart without prior warning. When the bottom falls out, it can be quite a mess. Avoid placing your clay fireplace on a wooden deck or any surface that can easily be damaged by heat or fire. Place it on cement or tile.

If you choose to purchase a clay fireplace, take safety precautions. Use a spark arrestor and a mouthscreen for safety. The extra cost is well worth it. A clay fireplace is generally cheaper but has a shorter lifespan than either aluminum or cast iron.

6. Surround view fireplaces and raised firepits

Most surround view fireplaces are built with light materials. Surround view fireplaces are easy to tip over because of the light material used to make it. When it is tipped over, it will send ash and embers everywhere.

Safety is an issue with surround view fireplaces. Slight breezes might send embers and catch fire with flammable materials.

If you’re buying a raised firepit, be sure that it comes with a lid. Otherwise, ash will be spread all over your patio when it rains.

7. What to burn

Hardwood is by far the most popular fuel for outdoor fireplaces. Pinon wood has a pleasant pine scent when burning. It keeps the flame active and generates good heat. It also helps in keeping insects away. Other fuel sources are propane, gel inserts, manufactured firelogs and natural gas.

Pine cones and applewood can be added for more aroma.

Several fireplaces come with inserts for natural gas and propane.

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A Better Refrigerant For Air Conditioners And The Environment

Posted by admin on Aug 2nd, 2009 in Home | 0 comments

Most air-conditioners and heat pumps sold around the world use a refrigerant called R-22. Emissions of R-22 are considered by some experts to be a significant factor in depleting the ozone layer that protects animals and people from harmful rays from the sun.

Families now have the choice to ask for an air-conditioner or heat pump that uses a more efficient and environmentally friendlier refrigerant called 410A or R-410 when buying a new system for their home.

It’s Environmentally Friendlier. If your system ever leaks, the escaping refrigerant won’t contribute to ozone depletion! Why can’t R-410A affect the ozone layer? R-410A is not a CFC or an HCFC. It is called an HFC, or hydrofluorocarbon, and is made of hydrogen, fluorine, and carbon atoms. Because it has no chlorine, it won’t interact with the ozone layer once it breaks down.

You avoid the risk that R-22 could become expensive or difficult to get when your system needs to be repaired in a few years. The old refrigerant R-22 will be phased out along with other ozone depleting chemicals, and both supply and demand of this chemical will be significantly affected by current and upcoming regulations. By selecting an air conditioner or heat pump that uses R-410A, you will avoid the risk associated with purchasing a product that is destined to become obsolete.

R-410A systems can be more reliable than R-22 systems. R-410A air conditioning and heat pump are today’s “state of the art” systems, and utilize the most current technology available for efficient and reliable operation. The heart of every air conditioner or heat pump is the compressor, and newer systems are specifically designed to use R-410A refrigerant. R-410A can absorb and release heat more efficiently than R-22 ever could, compressors with R-410A run cooler than R-22 systems, reducing the risk of burnout due to overheating.

We all know that the first thing “to go” on an air conditioning unit is the compressor. All air-conditioning systems use an oil that circulates through the inside of the system to keep all of the parts well lubricated, just like the engine of your car. R-22 air conditioners use an oil known as “mineral oil” that has been used for decades. R-410A air conditioners use newer synthetic lubricants that are usually more soluble with the R-410A than the old mineral oils are with the older R-22 refrigerants. This means the synthetic lubricants and R-410A can mix and circulate more efficiently to keep the compressor and other moving parts lubricated, reducing wear and extending their life. Also, just as many new cars use synthetic oils because they are less likely to break down under high stress and heat, the new synthetic oils used in R-410A air conditioners are less likely to break down under extreme conditions.

R-410A offers some wonderful advantages, but it required the manufacturers of air conditioners to redesign their products to take advantage of the properties of the refrigerant. The reason why a refrigerant works is because it captures the heat from one place, and then releases the heat somewhere else. R-410A captures heat and then releases it better than R-22 did, so manufacturers have found that they need less refrigerant in an R-410A air conditioner than they needed in an R-22 air conditioner. Because there’s less refrigerant, they need less copper tubing, and often can use a smaller compressor. The bad news was that R-410A couldn’t be used in air conditioners that were made to use R-22, but the advantages for new air conditioners were too great to pass up.

It’s obvious that air conditioners manufactured for using R-410A are more efficient, more reliable, and may even be less costly then the older units that still use R-22. Compare the SEER or EER ratings and the ENERGY STAR rating to be sure.

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10 Ways to Survive Builing or Remodeling Your Home

Posted by admin on Jul 20th, 2009 in Home | 0 comments

1. Think of the project as a new diet.
Who doesn’t want to lose at least five pounds?  This is one way to do it.  Between running to stores all day and evening long, meeting with contractors, inspecting the work, searching the Western world for the perfect light fixture, who has time to eat?  Provided you don’t sabotage this new, unorthodox diet plan, with McDonalds drive through, you’re good for losing five pounds. If you are a masochistic type who does some of the work yourself – whether it be painting, laying tile, landscaping the yard – you can count on another five to ten pounds of weight loss.  Just think, you may be miserable, frustrated, exhausted, nd down right cynical about the good of the humankind, but your jeans will fit nicely!

2. Write checks as aerobic exercise.
These workouts are great for toning the wrist and fingers.  Usually done in hectic spurts as you race out the door in the morning while the contractors are breathing down your neck and your kids are beating each other with the lunch boxes you just prepared, the stress and frantic activity are sure to raise your heartbeat for a good hour.  Grumbling under your breath that the plumber, electrician, or you name it, isn’t really worth this much money adds greater intensity and calorie burn to this little publicized exercise regime.

3. Save money through shopping burnout
Yes, even the most die-hard shopper will come to dread setting foot in any store.  This affliction starts innocently enough as you go to look for light fixtures. How hard can it be?  Hard! Either the light you want is being shipped from Yugoslavia and won’t arrive until your youngest child buys his own home, or you just can’t find the one you want.  You’ll shop every lighting and electrical store you know. You’ll search Home Depot. You’ll haunt hardware stores. And then there’s plumbing fixtures. Sink centers, faucet handles, finishes, special orders. What’s all that about?  And the cost. You’d think you were outfitting the palace for a former third world dictator.  Of course, there’s carpet, tile, hardwood, stairs, siding, windows.  Enough already. And you thought it was a pain picking mints and sweet
table treats for your wedding.

After your 1000th trip to Home Depot (or Lowes or Menards or whatever), in addition to all the other trips you’ve made for items that shouldn’t count as shopping (toilet seats, for example), you’ve had it.  Your friends won’t be able to bribe you to check out the latest sale at Bloomingdales.  You’ll think it will be better when you can pick out “fun” things like paint, wall paper, drapes, fabric, furniture – but don’t bet on it. At this point, the pressure to make your home look like something other than an empty rat maze will counteract any joy in shopping. Spending this much money has never been such a miserable experience.  As a result, when your home becomes half-way presentable, you’ll refuse to shop again – even for groceries – for at least six months.  The money you save during this shopping hiatus will be sufficient for you to resume this previously pleasurable past time
once more without guilt.

4. Impress your friends with obscure facts.
Only someone that has built or remodeled their home can explain the fluid dynamics of a proper toilet water swirl.  Or cite the International Building Code that calls for no more than 6’ between electrical outlets.  Or brag that triple glazed windows are really the wave of the future for light emitting device technology.  See what I mean? :)

5. Pride yourself on your new creative skills.
You’ll discover a creative side that you never knew existed.  Like how to wash dishes in the bath tub.  And how to make a full course meal for a family of four using nothing more than a toaster and hot plate.  Or how to fit an entire family in a house smaller than your first apartment.  They say that necessity is the mother of invention. That’s probably true, but I also think that the only thing that separates modern and pioneer life is just one kitchen or bath remodeling project.

6. Yell at someone other than your kids – and not feel guilty.
Honestly, as a modern woman trying to juggle the running of our homes, possibly a job, and the future Olympic soccer aspirations of our children, you have the primal need to yell. At someone. Anyone. Often our spouse and children suffer from this need of ours to release pent up negative energy generated from nothing more than some miniature human leaving smelly gym shoes on the kitchen table. (Ok, that probably deserves a bit of yelling – we eat at this table!)  But when you remodel your house, you have a whole cast of characters – and believe me, they’re characters – that often deserve a good scream from time to time.  Like when they tell you that they tore out the fireplace because they didn’t think it looked right.  Or when they show you a mistake made three weeks ago that now requires half the house to be torn down in order to fix.  Yelling isn’t immature or a result of too much estrogen, it’s therapy.

7. Throw out (finally) your significant other’s treasured [fill in the blank] from his bachelor days.
You know what I mean. It could be the semi-nude poster he won’t get rid of. Or his collection of exotic beer cans. Or all of his Sports Illustrated magazines since the Chicago Bears last won the Superbowl.  Now is the perfect time to get rid of it.  If you need to move out of your house while the remodeling is done, or you are moving to a new home, such an opportune time may never occur again. Say it won’t fit in the rental house. It’s either this or his golf clubs. Gently remind him that the sentimental item really serves as a reminder of his advancing years.  Anything. Get rid of it.  It will be one positive you can remind yourself of when the stress of remodeling makes you feel that this project was the biggest mistake of your life.

8. Grow closer to your family through forced bathroom sharing.
The saying goes that absence makes the heart grow fonder. Perhaps that wise pundit had to share a closet sized bathroom with three kids and a spouse.  In reality, there’s no greater way to create intimacy in a family than by all trying to get ready for the morning in the same 7’x 5’ space.  You’ll learn new exciting things about your children – like toilet paper is purely optional for little boys.  You’ll discover that there is no bond quite like the one created when the entire family brushes their teeth together over the same sink.  You’ll realize why the older generation of your relatives only washed their hair once a week instead of facing communal bathroom time.  But most importantly, you’ll no longer need to yell at your kids to hurry up for school – they’re standing right next to you.

9. Earn free flights from all of your purchases.
In what is admittedly (and somewhat sheepishly) the only practical survival tip on this list, get an airline mileage credit card. Charge everything on it – lights, plumbing fixtures, windows, doors, lumber, carpet.  The windows alone can get you close to one free trip.    Whether you decide to share your miles with anyone else in the family or to escape on your own to a world of quiet solitude and, preferably, an open bar, is entirely up to you.

10. Hire some good looking contractors and feel like you’re 15 years old again.
Hey, guys get a whole chain of restaurants and bars where the main attraction is busty waitresses in tight t-shirts (Hooters). Why can’t us gals have some eye candy once in a while?  Besides, it’s a productivity tool.  You’ll be more likely to inspect the job or meet the architect if some young, fit, good-looking men are there – especially in the summer months when shirts tend to become optional.  For example, we once hired a roofing crew of male model wannabees for a house we built. My husband called them the “Beefcake Roofers.”  They created quite a stir in the neighborhood that summer.  Let me tell you, it made rushing to stop by the house to go over notes with the trades first thing in the morning a bit more interesting … and much more fun!

Finally, remember, the end result of your new house will be worth the aggravation of the process. Plus, think of all the good stories you can tell!

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7 Window Cleaning Tips For That Special Sparkle

Posted by admin on Jul 16th, 2009 in Home | 0 comments

A sparkling window is the desire of everyone. Clean, bright shiny windows add a new look to every house. Like furniture, windows require their own cleaning methodology to keep them looking new and tidy. Here are 7 simple ideas to give your windows a marvellous shine.

1) Ensure that you dry your windows in one direction – leftwards or rightwards. Mixing the direction will leave unpleasant streaks on the glass and make it look untidy.

2) Before you wipe the window glass, remove all dust from the windows so that in applying a wet cloth, you do not leave mud on the window. Water and dust will form mud.

3) If you are cleaning window sills, rub the whole surface with a damp cloth sprayed with alcohol so that all the spots will clear off for a beautiful shine.

4) Windows are very sensitive to dirt. You should therefore apply only clean water in cleaning windows and in cases where you use damp cloth, use only clean cloths.

5) If the glass is greasy or smoky, apply some vinegar to the water before you clean the window. Vinegar removes grease without leaving streaks or stains.

6) When cleaning windows which are beyond the reach of you hand, use a step ladder if the height is medium or use a regular ladder if quite high. Always ensure that the safety clip is on and if possible, get some one to hold the base of the ladder for safety reasons.

7) Sprays are convenient to use than buckets of water. In cleaning windows of considerable heights, try to use sprays instead of buckets of water as they can spill and you will have to do everything again. The sheer weight and burden will get you tired easily.

Getting a window to shine is an easy task. All you need is the above window cleaning tips.

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5 Must Haves For Setting Up A Basement Bar

Posted by admin on Jul 12th, 2009 in Home | 0 comments

When setting up a basement bar there are some must have items you must have around or your basement bar won’t really be a bar but just a basement pretending to be. Of course, there are some extras like a jukebox and pool table that will really set the bar off. However, consider the following 5 must haves in order to set up your very own basement bar to enjoy a night with your friends, parties, game days and then add the extras when you can afford to.

Must Have #1 A Basement
This might seem obvious, but to have the best basement bar ever you really need a traditional basement. There are many benefits to this that include being on a completely different level than the rest of the house so noise won’t be transmitted and bother those above you. Of course, you can make a basement bar in whatever space you call the basement, but a true basement bar needs a basement.

Must Have #2 A Bar
Ok, obvious requirement number two is a bar. A basement bar needs a bar that is set up to serve beer and give the appearance that your basement bar is really authentic. You can buy a ready made bar, hire a carpenter to build you one, or give it a go yourself by buying the lumber and downloading step by step instructions from the Internet. As long as you have a basement and a bar your basement bar just needs some accessories.

Must Have #3 A Kegerator
A kegeraotr is a refrigerated keg that will keep your beer cold at all times and be ready to serve anytime the basement bar is open. You don’t want to have to buy six packs and litter your bar with bottled beer when you can serve beer straight from the keg. Keg beer is special and will make your basement bar even more so.

Must Have #4 A Big TV
No, you don’t have to have the biggest screen television on the market, but it will help. Buy the largest screen television you can afford for your basement bar, or one that fits the space well if your basement is really small. This will allow for great game watching like the Superbowl, Basketball National Championship, and other great games.

Must Have #5 Seating
This might seem generic, but it really is a must have for your basement bar. If your friends are joining you for a night of poker or Monday night Football they need a place to sit back and relax while drinking some of your keg beer. So, be sure to have some bar stools around the bar as well as comfy couches and chairs surrounding the TV, with your poker table nearby so there is plenty of seating wherever the action is taking place.

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3-Tab Roofing Shingles

Posted by admin on Jul 8th, 2009 in Home | 0 comments

Before deciding on 3-tab roofing shingles for your home, check with your local homeowner’s association. In addition to certain restrictions that each association may have, some do not allow the use of 3-tab shingles. This may be true in areas that are prone to high wind or other inclement weather, but check with your local building requirements to be sure.

Replacing 3-Tab Roofing Shingles

If you need to replace 3-tab roofing shingles, you can either do the job yourself or hire a professional roofing contractor, such as Roofer911.com. If you decide to take the job on yourself, choose a warm, dry day. Do not work on the roof if it is wet or slippery. Once you’re on the roof, carefully pry the tabs of the shingles upward, which overlap the damaged one. Loosen the tabs and the adhesive on the back of the shingle. Work carefully to avoid damage to the neighboring shingles. If you lift too many tabs on good shingles, they may crack. For the shingle that you are removing, look for the nails holding it into place and remove them as well. Once the shingle is out, remove any debris from that area before placing the new shingle. With your new shingle in hand, search for the adhesive strips near the bottom of each of the 3 tabs. Slide the new shingle into place and secure it with nails. You may use roofing cement to secure the overlaying tabs.

Contacting A Professional

If you are uncomfortable working on your roof, call a professional roofing contractor. Roofer911.com has years of experience in helping homeowners with all of their roofing needs. We can help you, too. Give us a call or fill in the form for a fast quote on your project. We are here to answer all of your questions and to provide you with quality work, so please do not hesitate to contact Roofer911.com for repair or replacement of your roof.

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